Our Route Up The Grand Teton: Upper Exum Ridge, Oct. 3, 1974

The photos at the link below show the best places on our route. I climbed The Grand with John Rehmer, who later climbed the East Ridge of Mount Logan in the Yukon Territory of Canada, worked as a landscape architect for the US Forest Service in Denver, and was on the Board of Directors of The American Alpine Club.

Descending, we rappelled to the Upper Saddle, but the wind blew me out over the steep chutes descending down to Idaho from Wyoming.

If the gusts don't stop and let you swing back in to the saddle's rib, then you could be hanging way out there over thin air for quite a while.

 If you start to slip down the rope through loss of friction of rope on your hip or carabiner brakebar, then you'll start to slide down the rope, to the end.

To prevent slipping off the end of your rope tie a big knot in the end, when doing this last rappel.

Then, if the wind doesn't stop for a long while, your climbing partner can climb up high enough to grab the rope, and pull on it enough to get you swinging, and you could then pendulum your way back in, and drop those last few feet to the rock even if its still blowing.

Once you finish the Exum Route series, go back to those early thumbnails, and click up to the main Grand Teton series. 

There will be a couple of glamour portraits of The North Face of The Grand, from the next peak to the north. 

Those photos will reveal the rappel and the steep chutes below.

Have Fun,

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/route_link.pl/route_id/595/object_id/140